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Egypt Correspondent:

Travel to the Western Desert of Egypt

How I will start to write about the lure of the Desert and safari in Egypt

"When did you last see the horizon as an uninterrupted circle around you?

When were you last surrounded by a vast expanse of ochre sand and golden rocks, where no buildings, no cars, no cultivated land can be see for hundreds of kilometres?

When did you last see the sun not as a flat disc hiding behind clouds but as a huge, three-dimensional, golden ball that descends behind the crimson, western horizon, only to come back in its full glory on the opposite horizon exactly 12 hours later?"

This was my lengthy answer when a good friend asked me what I find so special about the desert. I recounted how the stars at night are so big, so plentiful and so bright you can actually read by their light. The firmament seems so low that you might pick the stars from the sky or see the hills and valleys on the surface of the moon.

My wife is no less lyrical. " In the early morning, I can sit in the endless surroundings while the other members of out party are still asleep. I gaze at the wide horizons until I almost lose my senses. I find that my priorities become different, that haste disappears, that faraway and nearby change their meaning. I am humbled by the enormity of the desert, a land so vast in size and time. In its solitude, I feel small and insignificant compared to the greatness of nature, leaving me with awe and enormous respect for it. It is a refreshing and stimulating."

Full of surprises:

The desert is more than just sand. The land is dotted with rocks from earlier geological eras, sculptured into intriguing shapes and sizes by centuries of dry, sand-laden winds. You can hold history in your hand, as stones that we find in the desert often contain fossils, the petrified remains of plants and animals that lived millions of years ago.

Egypt's Western Desert was once underwater, part of a prehistoric see that separated what is now Eurasia and Africa some 130 million years ago. Today you can find desert slopes covered in shells and marine fossils left behind when the continents gradually shifted and waters receded into what is now the Mediterranean Sea.

Heavy black stone metorites have been found in the the Western Desert. And at night you can see the "shooting stars" of such metorites that burn in the atmosphere.

Oasis of life:

The occasional patch of hard grass, a few palm trees or a gnarled acacia tree indicates the presence of moisture, perhaps a hidden spring under the sand. While some plants take their water from early morning dew or the limited rainfall, the presence of palm trees nearly always means there is a deep source of water such as an aquifer.

Subterranean water is hot, only cooling when it reaches the oasis. Depending on the water source, oases vary in size from just a few square metes and a couple of palm trees to hundreds of square kilometres with thousands of palms. The trees, grass and other vegetation attract insects, birds, animals and humans. Larger oases, which can host villages and small towns, often have a lake of saline water.

Eco-Adventure:

Desert safaris are becoming increasingly popular among eco-tourists, who have a taste for unspoiled nature.

The Western Desert is one of the largest and most exciting parts the vast Sahara. It has enormous sand seas, dotted with magnificent mountains, hills and rocks. Wadis, dry riverbeds, cut through the sands and create breathtaking landscapes.

Escarpments attract geologists and palaeontologists from all over the world because of their intriguing mineral contents and abundance of fossils.

There are hundreds of small oases in the western Desert and six large ones that are rapidly becoming important new tourist attractions. Closest to Cairo is Fayoum Oasis, were every weekend people from the capital come to relax. About 300kilometers further southwest is Bahariyya Oasis, where a few charming hotels can be found. Further on in the same direction is Farafra. These oases are popular launch points for safaris into the Black Desert, Crystal Mountain and the White Desert.

Due south of Farafra is Dakhla Oasis, where the road continues to Luxor through Kharga Oasis. Far west of the Fayoum-Kharga circuit, about 120 kilometers from the Libyan border, is the famous Siwa Oasis and the timeless mud-brick town of Shali Siwa, Farafra and Dakhla are good launch points for the Great Sand Sea, with its majestic dunes.

Rules of a Safe Safaris:

A barbecue in desert is no ordinary picnic. Desert safaris require strict discipline to ensure everyone's safety. Off-road trips should only be made in reliable four-wheel-drives. Since there are no roads, let alone road signs in the desert, one should always have a local guide or an experienced desert explorer in the party who can operate a GPS.

Check out the plans of the tour you are considering. Never enter the desert off-road with only one vehicle. A desert safari party should consist of preferably three trucks in case one is down or gets stuck in the loose sand, which frequently happens even to the most experienced safari drivers. Mobile phone networks rarely extend to the areas between oases, so a satellite phone is a must.

Safaris must always carry enough water and extra gas cans, and if you plan to camp, pack warm clothing and blankets, The heat of day rapidly gives way to the cold of night, with a temperature drop of as much 20 degrees Celsius in just a couple of hours.

Life abounds in the desert, especially at night, and you'll often wake up in the morning to find tracks around your tent, where a desert fox crept in to check out the leftovers from your dinner. You may occasionally see a snake or a scorpion, usually more startled by than you by it and if your timing is right. You might even come across a swarm of locusts desperately searching for something green to feast on.

After a few days in the desert, you'll find that the taste of fresh water is your idea of a good drink. A trip through the desert is not just another holiday outing it is a life-changing adventure.

Hossam Rashwan for EgyptHoliday.com




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